Comme des Garçons is a brand that is anything but traditional, known for its avant-garde and deconstructionist approach to fashion. However, it has engaged with traditional fashion in ways that both acknowledge and subvert conventional norms. While the brand, led by Rei Kawakubo, is celebrated for its revolutionary designs that challenge the boundaries of what fashion can be, it also maintains certain connections to traditional fashion, particularly through its tailoring, fabric choices, and occasional nods to classic garments. This article will explore the ways in which Comme des Garçons interacts with traditional fashion, even as it continues to push the envelope of innovation.
Tailoring and Craftsmanship
Though Comme des Garçons is often seen as a pioneer of anti-fashion, commedesgarconsus the brand has always maintained a high level of craftsmanship and attention to detail, aspects that are very much rooted in traditional fashion. Rei Kawakubo’s garments often showcase complex construction techniques that require expert tailoring, even if the final product appears unconventional or abstract. In this sense, Comme des Garçons honors the traditional craft of garment-making, even while distorting the shapes and forms of the clothing.
One example of this can be seen in Comme des Garçons’ use of structured blazers and tailored suits in its collections. These pieces often start with traditional silhouettes but are then altered or deconstructed to create something entirely new. While the craftsmanship remains impeccable, the end result challenges the wearer’s expectations of what a suit or blazer should look like. These pieces might feature asymmetrical cuts, exaggerated proportions, or even appear to be falling apart, but the tailoring behind them remains precise, a nod to the brand’s respect for traditional garment-making techniques.
Use of Fabrics
Comme des Garçons also incorporates traditional fabrics into its designs, often using materials such as wool, cotton, and silk, which are staples in classic fashion. However, Rei Kawakubo typically experiments with how these fabrics are used. For instance, a traditional wool suit might be reimagined with unconventional draping or cutouts, or a cotton shirt could be distorted into an entirely new shape.
Kawakubo is also known for experimenting with textures and layers, which adds depth to otherwise classic fabric choices. She might combine different materials, such as silk and leather, or mix textures like velvet and denim, creating a contrast that disrupts the familiarity of traditional fashion fabrics. By doing this, Comme des Garçons takes something familiar—like a wool coat or a cotton blouse—and transforms it into something unexpected, yet rooted in traditional fashion practices.
This approach allows Comme des Garçons to maintain a connection to fashion’s historical roots, while still offering a new perspective. By using traditional fabrics in innovative ways, the brand bridges the gap between classic and contemporary fashion, creating a dialogue between the past and the future.
Deconstruction of Classic Garments
One of the hallmarks of Comme des Garçons’ approach to fashion is deconstruction, a technique that involves taking apart traditional garments and reassembling them in new ways. This concept is one of the ways the brand interacts with traditional fashion. Rei Kawakubo often begins with classic pieces—such as suits, dresses, or coats—and then distorts, reworks, or deconstructs them to create something avant-garde. This technique highlights the underlying structure of traditional garments while also questioning their place in modern fashion.
For example, a traditional trench coat might be deconstructed by Comme des Garçons into multiple layers, with raw edges exposed and seams intentionally left unfinished. The result is a piece that both acknowledges the history and craftsmanship of traditional fashion while simultaneously challenging the norms associated with it. In this way, Comme des Garçons respects the foundations of traditional fashion but uses them as a platform for experimentation and innovation.
Gender-Neutral Approach to Traditional Fashion
Traditional fashion has long been rooted in strict gender divisions, with clear distinctions between men’s and women’s clothing. Comme des Garçons has consistently challenged these boundaries, often creating collections that feature gender-neutral designs. While the brand offers menswear and womenswear, many of its pieces blur the lines between the two, subverting traditional ideas of gender in fashion.
This gender-fluid approach is seen in the brand’s use of traditionally masculine elements in womenswear, such as blazers, oversized shirts, and trousers, and traditionally feminine elements in menswear, such as skirts and flowing fabrics. By doing so, Comme des Garçons questions the rigid gender norms that have long governed traditional fashion and opens up new possibilities for self-expression.
One of the best examples of this is Comme des Garcons hoodie Kawakubo’s exploration of tailored suits for women, which took traditional masculine tailoring and adapted it for the female body in ways that were both subversive and empowering. These suits often featured exaggerated proportions or asymmetrical designs, challenging the idea of what formalwear should look like for women. At the same time, they retained elements of traditional tailoring, making them both a departure from and a continuation of traditional fashion.
Reverence for Tradition Through Innovation
Although Comme des Garçons is often associated with pushing fashion to its limits, there is an underlying reverence for the traditions of fashion throughout Rei Kawakubo’s work. The brand’s experimental silhouettes, use of unconventional proportions, and conceptual approach to clothing might seem to stand in opposition to traditional fashion, but in reality, they exist in conversation with it. Comme des Garçons often uses the building blocks of traditional fashion—tailoring, fabric, construction—and manipulates them into new forms.
In many ways, this approach can be seen as a tribute to traditional fashion, showing that innovation does not have to come at the expense of craftsmanship or respect for the past. Comme des Garçons doesn’t reject tradition; it reinterprets it. By acknowledging the rules of traditional fashion, Kawakubo is able to break them in a way that feels purposeful and thoughtful.
Conclusion
Comme des Garçons may be known for its avant-garde and deconstructionist style, but its relationship with traditional fashion is complex and nuanced. The brand’s expert tailoring, use of classic fabrics, and engagement with traditional garments all point to a deep respect for the foundations of fashion. However, Rei Kawakubo’s genius lies in her ability to subvert and reimagine these traditions, creating pieces that are at once familiar and groundbreaking. In doing so, Comme des Garçons has carved out a unique place in fashion history, offering a fresh perspective on what it means to engage with tradition while constantly pushing the boundaries of design.